Overview: First coming into fruition during the Edo period, now in common day Tokyo, Tokyo style Tegaki Yuzen (TTY), was created in the Shinjuku ward. This form of textile is only used for Kimono for women, and is used for Furisode, Tomesode, and Homogi. What sets TTY apart from other Yuzen fabrics is its muted, and tender color palette. Another unique attribute that the textile has is that every step of it is done by one artisan not a team, which makes it one of the hardest Yuzen styles to master. Related to Kyo Yuzen and also Kaga Yuzen the main difference is that Tegaki is hand painted by the artisan. Staple patterns are Edotoki, Goshodoki, and Yusoku style.
History: Dating back to the 1800s, the area now known as Tokyo today, was becoming a hub for culture, and politics. Master craftsman Yuzensai Miyazaki created the style. Yuzensai was first a fan painter, but over time his kimono patterns were being praised more, so he changed his art to kimono. As time went on laws were created, to prohibit luxury items, and kimonos with embroidery were banned. During this form of classism that was created by the start of the Tokugawa period, shops went to Yuzensai for his style. To this day, Yuzensai’s kimono technique is still produced.
Production: First the design is planned based on the buyer and what they want on the kimono. A rough sketch is then created and relayed back to the wearer for their opinion. This is created using a spiderwort paint brush on a blank piece of textile using a fine pointed brush, and resist paste is applied. Then dye is instilled into the fabric, which usually is not done, another unique attribute that this textile has. Then a mask is placed over top to protect the textile, and to instill the color better. Outside of the sun, the artisan must move the textile indoors, to prevent sun spots and uneven dyeing. During this time they also add the ground color onto the textile as well. Then the fabric is steamed, washed, and smoothed out. Embroidery and gold are optional. Then the family crest is planted onto the kimono, and it is completed.
Images: KogeiJapan, KimonoJP, DentoTokyo
Instagram Post: https://www.instagram.com/p/CvgnWbiMsCq/
The reason why I make these articles is because I am infatuated by the craftsmanship that these Artisans have. Now, everyone wants their stuff instantly, one day shipping, that instant satisfaction. What also drives me to make these posts is the beauty behind "mundane" things.
Komentar