Overview:
Located in Ryukyu, (One of the southernmost islands in Japan) is a dyed textile from the Shuri district, called Bingata. Dating back to the 14th century, mainly by women in the royal family. There are two types, one being more colorful, and the other being primarily indigo. Bingata is the colorful one and Aigata is the indigo based dyeing method. There are also two types of print drawing, Katatsuke, which is stencil, and Tsutsuhiki, which is free hand. Rich and deep colors are the main staples of the Bingata dyeing method, giving it a distinct difference than other dyeing methods. This is because of the tropical characteristics the textile has.
History:
With no definite record of when Bingata was created, but first documented in Ryukyu around the14th century. Ryukyu, a hub of trade between all of eastern Asia, were part of the influence that created the textile, and its unique pattern. It was so important that it was protected by the Ryukyu Royal Government. Bingata was also given to prominent Chinese lords, and Shogunate each unique. Sadly, much of the craft was destroyed due to World War II. But eventually came back in Okinawa
Process:
First the pattern is carved, then pasted on using Shibugami, this is a technique that uses paper pasted together with persimmon, and then the design is directly illustrated onto the Shibugami. A process called Tsukihori is then done, a dried piece of tofu is placed underneath of the shibugami, then a knife face up is used to carve into the tofu, which takes a substantial amount of time and concentration. Then the pattern is either left on and everything else is carved or the stencil is just directly carved out. Then, the pattern is placed over a silk textile, and RP is applied, with much concentration the paste must be applied so there is no cracking onto the textile. Next is coloring, first with light colors then dark colors, then Gojiro is applied. Then the colors are applied again for a deeper color. Then a process called Kumadori is used, to make the 3D colors. Then more RP is applied in a careful manner, then it is texture dyed, washed and then dried
Images: KogeiJapan
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The reason why I make these articles is because I am infatuated by the craftsmanship that these Artisans have. Now, everyone wants their stuff instantly, one day shipping, that instant satisfaction. What also drives me to make these posts is the beauty behind "mundane" things.
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