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  • Writer's pictureTyler Thum

Naniwa Honzome Hand Dyeing: Part 4/13

Updated: Nov 12, 2023

Overview:

Also known as “Chusen” the Naniwa Honzome Hand Dyeing method dates back to the Meiji period. Main cities, such as Sakai, and Osaka in Kashiwara, were the mitochondria of the dyeing process in Japan. The craft evolved into what we know now, in the Meiji period. Where an abundance of the technique was in demand. Naniwa Honzome is different from other techniques because the dye is applied to both sides of the bleached fabric, not just one side. This creates a deeper color in the fabric. Craftsmen who are heavily trained, adjust the frame to the correct place. Then the resist paste (starch) is applied onto the fabric to create the print. The process is special because of the amount of resist paste used to get the right colors. Artisans need to add so much paste that it creates a mound, then it is hand dyed. The mounds need to be large enough so that the dye does not bleed onto the other parts of the fabric ruining the fabric.


History:

A special cloth is used for Naniwa Honzome, it is called Wazarashi. This is just bleached cotton cloth. This cloth was first used near the Ishizu River which is close to Osaka, Sakai, and Tsukuno. All of these places had the correct conditions to make this cloth. Through experimentation, in these regions, craftsmen found the Naniwa technique. Now the method is still in heavy demand with products such as parasols, coasters, daily goods, and of course kimono, are used using this colorful dyeing method.


Process:

Resist paste is added to create the design, mounds are then made to separate colors on the fabric, then the front and back are dyed in the same exact way. The fabric is then washed then dried in the sun.


Images: KogeiJapan, OkanArts



The reason why I make these articles is because I am infatuated by the craftsmanship that these Artisans have. Now, everyone wants their stuff instantly, one day shipping, that instant satisfaction. What also drives me to make these posts is the beauty behind "mundane" things.





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