Welcome to the first part of a series of Kimono Dyeing.
This is the beginning post to my writing journey. As time goes on I will get better with my words, etc. If there is any feedback, I am open to it! Message me on Instagram, or reach out to me on Gmail. @thumtj88@gmail.com, Thank you!
Popular since the Edo Period in Japan and created in the Aichi prefecture of Nagoya, the Nagoya Kimono, a raven-black colored woven textile, is mainly used for events such as weddings and funerals. Embedded with the family crest, it was most often used by commoners and samurai of the time.
There are two different techniques used to implement the family crest onto the kimono. The first one is called “Hitashi Zome”, which is to dye the family crest onto the kimono. The second is called “Hiki Zome”, which is when the artisan paints the crest onto the Kimono after the dyeing process is done.
Dating all the way back to 1611, the head of the Owari domain, Shinzaemon Kosakai, created the first iteration of the technique called mon-nori-fuse, which was the first way to do the later redefined Hiki Zome.
Dyeing Process: First, the white fabric is relieved of impurities for dyeing to be in the best condition and the position of the crest is marked. The resist paste is then applied to the kimono, then using the cardboard cutout of the family crest it is applied. The weave is then dunked in water to preserve the cardboard pattern cutouts. Then the dyeing truly begins. Picking from two dyes, of which one is used for men the other for women, named aishita and benishita respectively. When the dye is chosen it is put into 80-90C water, which then is left in the water for 10-15 minutes. The tub is then shaken every so often to prevent uneven dyeing. For the black dyeing there are two different techniques: the “kuro hitashi zome” technique and the “kuro hikizome” technique. The dye is then put into water for 30-40 minutes in 90-95 degree celsius water. The process is then let to rest overnight. Finally the family crest is drawn onto the textile by an experienced artisan using animal protein glue, with a protractor, ruler and extra fine tipped brush.
Video from: The Tokai Traveler on YouTube
Instagram Post: https://www.instagram.com/p/CskRTjJsyt6/?img_index=1
The reason why I make these articles is because I am infatuated by the craftsmanship that these Artisans have. Now, everyone wants their stuff instantly, one day shipping, that instant satisfaction. What also drives me to make these posts is the beauty behind "mundane" things.
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